Challenged by a Kashmiri greengrocer in South Kensington, journalist Justine Hardy went to work for The Indian Express in New Delhi. This is an idiosyncratic, funny, and sad tale about writing as an outsider on the inside of a country where the newspapers are still printed on hot-metal machines and deadlines are missed because of cows at rush hour. Indias clash of past an Challenged by a Kashmiri greengrocer in South Kensington, journalist Justine Hardy went to work for The Indian Express in New Delhi. This is an idiosyncratic, funny, and sad tale about writing as an outsider on the inside of a country where the newspapers are still printed on hot-metal machines and deadlines are missed because of cows at rush hour. Indias clash of past and present continues to wrong-foot Justine as she tries to get her story in order.